July 16, 2019

Laveno Loop

The other side of Lago di Maggiore was alluring, so we decided to cross from Piedmont to Lombardy. Some folks boarded a boat next to the hotel; I joined the group that cycled first, to a ferry at Verbania.

The air was clear enough to see the distant snow-capped peaks of the Alps.

We headed south, passing a campground with banners advertising charging stations ... for bicycles! (Electric bikes are popular in Europe.) Someday I will appreciate that assistance, but today food still fuels my motor.

We took a detour to see the hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso, but were not sufficiently enticed to pay the entrance fee.

On the other hand, when we caught sight of the Rocca di Angera, high on a hill, we goaded our leader into doing the climb. [At its steepest, a 12% grade.]

We paid the entrance fee. [It was worth it.]

We wandered around the fortress on our own, but didn't linger long enough to explore it fully. One of the first rooms we found was devoted to wine-making, and I can say that I had never before seen such a humongous press.

It's a challenge to walk on cobblestones in bike shoes—even more so when the walkway is inclined. But the stone arches of a fortress often frame lovely views. [It was worth it.]

The grounds have been restored with period gardens and grapevines, and oh ... the views!

The fortress dates back to the 13th century, and I wish we'd had enough time to explore the historic rooms, but we were mindful that our ride leader was keeping watch over our bikes so we could be tourists.

We made our way around the southern end of the lake, to the town of Arona (where, evidently, the locals have a sense of humor).

Here we found, not umbrellas, but colorful pinwheels suspended overhead.

And, a view of the Rocca di Angera across the lake. [Yes, indeedy, we climbed that hill.] Overall, though, a flat day by the time we returned to Baveno: 48 miles with only 1,001 feet of climbing.

After dinner (which, by the way, is a multi-course meal every night), I was rewarded with this view of a rosy moon rising above the lake. Molto bella!

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