During my recent trip to Amsterdam, I developed a deeper appreciation for the bright colors and lights that are part of our winter celebrations. The days are short and often gray; when the sun does make an appearance, it doesn't rise far above the horizon.
What better way to stave off the darkness than with a festival of lights?
For many years, a nearby park gets decked out with elaborate displays of lights during the holiday season.
The patterns and colors of this tunnel shift; I managed to catch it fully lit.
This used to be a strictly drive-through event, but three years ago the organizers experimented with a walk-through night. It's a family affair, kids in strollers and wagons—even little ones on foot. Some visitors come bedecked in lights. We even saw one girl touring on crutches, her foot in a cast.
That first walk-through was a success. A new annual tradition was born—and has grown: they offer many more tickets, and this year added a second walk-through night. I persuaded a friend to join me.
Some of the displays are animated. Here, a penguin climbs to the top of the igloo and dives into the water.
It wasn't a particularly cold night, but this snowman was shivering (in an old GTE phone booth). I was surprised when one of the kids nearby knew what that was.
The kids have the upper hand in the un-traditional prehistoric zone, where a variety of dinosaurs romp and chomp (complete with sound effects.)
There are some snow-capped peaks, and even a volcano erupting.
I think there is no better way to see the displays; but if you've missed the walk-through nights, you can still pick up tickets to drive through.
My hotel room in Zaandam overlooked a square featuring a statue of Tsar Peter. Tsar Peter? As in, Peter the Great? In the Netherlands?
In the late 17th century Tsar Peter spent some time here, under a pseudonym, as he toured western Europe on a quest to modernize Russia. The monument in the center of the square features the young tsar practicing the craft of shipbuilding.
The weather today, unfortunately, was more of the same. I could not get enthused about biking in the cold and damp, under more gray skies. The forecast included some afternoon sunshine; maybe I would rent a bike near Zaanse Schans later.
I set out to cover the 6 km on foot, through residential neighborhoods that turned industrial. The dramatic Prince Bernhard bridge is a modern drawbridge over the River Zaan, complete with separated cycling lanes and paths for pedestrians.
The streets were deserted on a Sunday morning; even the churches seemed quiet. Shop windows were decorated with Sinterklaas and Piet.
What better advertisement for maternity care than a picture of a stork bearing its precious bundle?
The windmills restored at Zaanse Schans were at the forefront of the industrial revolution, which made the location seem particularly fitting as I passed modern plants. I picked up the scent of chocolate a few blocks before I passed some chocolate-related factories, and thought back to a video I'd watched on the plane that included a piece about an artist who builds “smell maps” of cities (including Amsterdam).
Zaanse Schans is for the Netherlands what Colonial Williamsburg is for the eastern U.S.—a place that re-creates and preserves an older way of life. At Zaanse Schans, there were artisans demonstrating the making of cheeses and wooden shoes. Some groups have restored the old windmills and keep them running.
Like Colonial Williamsburg, Zaanse Schans was a bit touristy. But you can avoid that.
After walking through De Huisman, where I learned about spice grinding, I chose well in touring De Kat.
De Kat is set up to pound bark and other materials to create pigments for paint. This being Europe (not the litigious U.S.), it was possible to climb the steep ladder to reach the balcony for a close look at the sails. (And to descend, backward, its equally steep counterpart.) I was surprised to discover the outside covered in thatch.
It didn't take much of a breeze to send the sails spinning. Inside, I watched the massive gears turn, catching and releasing a heavy post to pound the pigments.
Had I given much thought to it, I might have realized that the sails are not fixed in a particular orientation. To take best advantage of the shifting winds, they can be “steered”—rotated around the tower to catch the wind. These original windmills translated wind energy directly into mechanical force—to pound or grind, or even to saw logs into lumber. Ingenious.
The shop at De Huisman sold little bags of the button-sized cookies I'd seen Piet and his helpers hand out yesterday; no need to feel left out any longer! I sampled a few different cheeses at the cheese-making shop, and sat down at the bake shop to enjoy a warm waffle slathered with Nutella.
I learned that it was once traditional for a man to carve elaborate designs into a pair of wooden clogs for his bride.
Outside, I spotted a heron in the marsh and watched a cat skulking through the grass, its eye on a crow.
That weather forecast I mentioned above? Total fiction. There was no sign of the sun; in fact, my umbrella saw more action. I've come to think that they throw a little sunshine into the forecast just to give you hope.
My Dutch adventure will wrap up outside Amsterdam's city limits. Travelers who were expecting to take the train to the airport were befuddled, as that route was not available due to some planned engineering work. Using mass transit in foreign locales is not as simple as the locals would have you believe. I managed to navigate the metro and a train (without incident!) to reach my next destination: Zaandam.
The main street leading away from the train station was a modern shopping district that was bustling with families. I overheard some kids asking about Sinterklaas. Sadly, holiday merchandise had begun to appear in the Bay Area in September, and mid-November still feels early to me. But the timing here turns out to be more sensible: St. Nicholas Day is a little more than three weeks away.
People seemed to be streaming purposefully across a bridge to another part of town, and I could hear a voice booming over a loudspeaker. I followed my nose. Families were gathering at barriers around a couple of blocked-off streets; I could see a horse-drawn carriage, and people in colorful costumes on four magnificent horses. Could it be?
Yes! Today was the arrival of Sinterklaas.
My timing was perfect—I got a ringside position before the crowd swelled. Many children wore colorful caps adorned with feathers, not unlike those worn by the characters on horseback. The announcer chattered away, occasionally leading the crowd in song. Riders led the horses over for petting (by adults as well as children); some children clutched drawings they'd made of horses, handing them to the riders.
A plume of steam went up and a ship's horn sounded; this is how Sinterklaas arrives (on the HMS Elfin. No translation needed).
Children were three and four deep at the barriers; Piet! Piet! they squealed as Sinterklaas's costumed helpers appeared—in traditional blackface—clutching sacks of goodies for the kids (little bags of cinnamon cookies). I did my part to point out little outstretched hands nearby that were easily overlooked, so I think everyone in the little flock around me scored at least one goody bag.
The kids were so excited! It was another cloudy, damp, cold day here (though at least it wasn't raining). My fingers felt frozen inside my winter gloves. Some of the kids had bare hands. One little girl received two bags stuck together; she pulled them apart and immediately held out the extra—rather than keeping it for herself. Having watched that play out, I smiled and passed the bag to a child farther back.
Disabled partiers in wheelchairs were brought front and center.
Sinterklaas worked his way along the barrier, while his helpers skipped along, high-fiving the kids and handing out more cookies.
The entourage assembled on the wide steps of a building before Sinterklaas rode off on an antique fire engine. I saw the whole brigade again, without the crowds: they happened to parade along a street I'd chosen to explore.
No cookies for me. I guess I'm on the naughty list this year.
Near the train station, I noticed a well-lit entrance with moving ramps descending below ground. An entrance to the Metro station, perhaps? The signage did not include an English translation.
After passing it a few times, the large blue “P” and bicycle icon finally registered. It's the entrance to an underground bicycle parking garage! You check in with your regular electronic fare card at a kiosk, and then check out with the attendants wielding hand-held scanners. If I understood them correctly, you pay only for the first 24 hours. There were plenty of spaces available; most people park their bikes on the street. But if you're headed away for a couple of days on the train, this would be the place to secure your bike. It's also possible to rent a bicycle here.
Most bikes are secured with two locks. First, a horseshoe-shaped lock, placed within the rear triangle, that prevents the rear wheel from moving (or being removed). Second, a heavy (and I do mean heavy) chain in a protective fabric sheath to secure the bike (and its front wheel) to rack, fence, lightpost, tree—the usual.
I'd say that I saw it all here, in terms of cycling, but I'm sure I didn't.
Most cyclists simply bike in their street clothes—wool coats, not even bothering with raincoats much less full-on cycling rain gear. I saw exactly three cyclists wearing helmets—and they were also the only ones I saw with road bikes, in full kit. I did see one middle-aged woman cycling in a fur (?) jacket stamped all over with Mickey Mouse heads.
I saw a boy standing on the rear rack as a parent pedaled.
An adult riding side-saddle on the rear rack (more than one sighting).
Kids in seats mounted fore and aft. I'm enough of a klutz just by myself; I wish I'd seen how you balance a bike while getting two squirmy kids into (and out of) their seats.
People commonly transport anywhere from one to three kids on a cargo bike, with or without a cover.
Biking with umbrellas. Biking with packages. Biking while carrying a piece of art. Bikes with baskets, crates, and panniers.
Seat covers are popular (what with all this rain). The bright pink ones advertised a grocery store, deep purple for a beauty salon.
A deluxe chariot, outfitted with a padded bench and straps to secure the kids.
I haven't noticed many overweight locals (much less, obese). The necessity of exercise helps with that, I expect.
After relocating to a hotel in the business district (I am here for work, after all), I returned to explore more of the city.
It was—you guessed it—another rainy day.
I'd read that the views are stunning from the tower of the Westerkerk. Alas, that appeared to be accessible only to groups, by reservation.
Boat tours were running, but not enticing given the weather. I decided to visit the flower market, housed along one canal mostly in floating greenhouses. Of course, this is not really the season; the first stall had a colorful array of flowers. The rest? Tulip bulbs, mostly ... and lots of tchotchkes.
Having mastered the bus, tram, and train, today I tackled the Metro. I had picked up an OV-chipkaart to simplify my travels: keep it topped up, then just tap on, tap off. Tonight I have a ticket for the ballet, and their website warned of disruption at the nearest Metro station due to ... yet more construction.
The National Opera and Ballet was a short walk from the flower market, and the Metro would take me back to my hotel's neighborhood. Before puzzling out the route (and coping with an unexpected delay, a broken-down train), I wandered through a nearby street market.
At first glance, it was typical: Vendors hawking their wares on tables set up under portable canopies. At second glance, it was unusual. There were at least four stalls offering bicycle gear: saddles, locks, and heavy chains. I overheard one conversation: “I could sell you a cheaper chain, but you will be back in a few days after your bike is stolen.” There was also a bicycle mechanic in one stall, stocked with a vast array of wheels and other necessary parts.
Near my hotel, sparks flew as a well-dressed man applied a power tool to a chain. Presumably a chain securing his own bicycle.
After my trial run on the Metro, returning for the ballet was a breeze.
For me, this was a rare opportunity to see a full-length performance of La Bayadère.
In the first act, the male lead failed to stick a landing and came down hard (but gracefully). He seemed sheepishly grateful for the enthusiastic applause he got when he took his bows.
The final act unfolded behind a mostly-transparent curtain. Perhaps to contain the swirling clouds at the feet of the dancers? It dampened the luster and rendered the action slightly out-of-focus.
But it was Act III's “The Kingdom of the Shades” that I was most eager to see in context, having seen it performed separately by the San Francisco Ballet. I was surprised to recognize the music before the first dancer appeared, but I knew this piece had made a huge impression on me. The sight of the corps de ballet descending, zig-zag, onto the stage in a seemingly unending stream of arabesques is simply unforgettable.
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