Around Monte Mottarone

First ride of this trip! We headed north, passing Feriolo before turning west.

We split into three groups today, and I would stick with the middle group. We would not climb Monte Mottarone, but circle it in the (easier) counterclockwise direction. When we reached Lago d'Orta, we traced the eastern shore.

We wondered what this Moorish-style building was—a luxury hotel, as it turns out. (That was not one of our guesses.)

When we reached the town of Gignese, we stopped for a snack. There was some grilling going on, though it wasn't clear whether they were cooking for customers or having a Sunday afternoon barbecue.

When the head honcho headed straight for me with a frown on his face, I guessed (correctly) at the source of his disdain. I removed my sunglasses and turned them around, so he could see that the rectangle mounted on the frame was nothing more than a rear-view mirror. (Not, as many suspect, a camera.) With a smile as broad as his face, he showed the brilliant invention to his compatriots. A boombox materialized, and they treated us to the Rolling Stones and Van Morrison.

 

It takes a pretty special view to stop me on a descent ... here, it was Stresa (and, of course, Lago di Maggiore).

After 32 miles and 2,041 feet of climbing, we had enough time and energy to stroll through town before dinner. Gray clouds were looming; there is a chance of thunderstorms in the forecast, all week.

Baveno

The adventure begins by train ... three trains, to be exact: Zürich, Switzerland to Baveno, Italy.

I started my journey early, knowing I could catch a later connection if I missed the third train—I would have only four minutes to exit the Swiss train on Platform 8 and transfer to the Italian train on Platform 3 in Domodossola.

No ramp. Down the stairs I went, with my baggage. One backpack. One rolling suitcase. And one bike bag. [Yes, I am quite the sight.]

Along the tunnel to Platform 3, where I could see the train above me. Up ... the ... “Signora!” a voice called out. A chivalrous Italian gentleman reached for my bike bag and carried it up ... the stairs! “Grazie, grazie!” I said as fellow passengers helped me (and my baggage) aboard.

On these trips, our group is accustomed to modest accommodations in small inns. This time, our group was large (27 people, not all of whom would cycle). The lobby of our hotel on Lake Maggiore was a clue that this trip would be different.

As well as the lovely mosaic in my shower.

And, of course, my view of the lake.

Notice the bride walking up the red carpet?

After settling in, I set off to explore the town, starting with the Church of Santi Gervasio and Protasio, parts of which may date back to the 11th century.

One side of the plaza features a 19th century colonnade depicting the stations of the cross.

Another advantage of our hotel became evident in the capacious dining hall: They cater to large groups (bus tours, mostly).

Our Grand Jubilee Tour has begun!