May 14, 2017

York

York—as in the original, not the familiar New World “New” version.

York Minster viewed from city walls, York, England
I had chosen to fly into Edinburgh (where the cycling tour will end), and take the train to York (where it will begin). Opting to rent a bike from Wilderness Scotland was the right call for this trip. Apart from the complicated logistics of hauling the bike (and its bag), there is a good chance we'll be riding in the rain. Your bike? You clean and service it. Their bike? They handle it all. (Sold.)

The train was packed with rugby fans returning from an important match. So much for those stunning views of the coast, I thought, as I stood outside the one coach with unreserved seats. I got lucky, though; some gentlemen pointed me at a seat that had emptied after the first hour, and graciously kept an eye on my luggage till we disembarked.

With many daylight hours left on a northern spring day, I set out to see what I might of the city.

River Ouse from the Lendal Bridge, York, England
I crossed the Lendal Bridge over the River Ouse, and headed for the Minster.
Windows and nave of the Minster, York, England
I passed the well-preserved birthplace of Guy Fawkes, still rather notorious more than 400 years after he paid the price of his treason.

Sign for Guy Fawkes Inn (birthplace), York, England
I strolled through the Shambles, with buildings dating back to the 1400s.

Medieval building along the Shambles, York, England
I watched traffic flow under the Micklegate Bar—including an Uber Prius—some 800 years after it was built.

Cars pass through the Micklegate Bar, back side, York, England
But there is much more history here, dating back to pre-Roman times and the founding of the city nearly 2,000 years ago. [Yes, you read that right.]

The well-chosen site of the York Museum is dense with history, from the ruins of a medieval hospital ...

Ruins of St. Leonard's Hospital, York, England
... to a tower built by the Romans around 300 A.D.

Multiangular tower, York, England
In the shadow of that Multiangular Tower, conservationists were offering close encounters with birds of prey.

Tethered owl, York, England
And then of course, there are the city walls. The Romans built a wall. The Vikings buried it. [It's a complicated business, this wall thing.]

View of the city wall from the outside, York, England
The medieval wall was visible from my hotel room. I explored a stretch, but there wasn't enough time to complete a full circuit.

Atop the city wall, with towers of the Minster, York, England
Much more to see here ... next time?

May 13, 2017

Edinburgh

Six Ferraris, all in a row. Three red, two black, one yellow. South Queensferry, Scotland
What am I doing, here?!

I really hadn't planned on taking a cycling trip this year. I was kind of in a world-funk. Then a brief mention in the New York Times Travel section caught my eye one Sunday, and more or less on a whim I booked a tour with Wilderness Scotland—their Five Countries Tour.

It seemed like a good idea at the time. It seemed like less of a good idea as I boarded the plane, having cycled only about 333 miles to date this year. And still with a sore throat (week number four). I'd visited the doctor, again, on Monday. “I'm supposed to get on a plane to the UK on Friday,” I lamented. “Have a good time!” he replied.

Technically, I am in South Queensferry; hotel rooms were scarce (and expensive) in the city itself. Curiously, there were 24 Ferraris in the parking lot. (An excited little boy counted them.) Earlier in the day, the road bridge spanning the Firth of Forth had been briefly closed to allow a caravan of 75 of them to cross, evidently celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Ferrari Owners' Club.

Hello, Scotland.